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KIRGHIZIA
Uncle Ned's adventures
in the ex-Soviet Central Asia
Like all developing nations they have their problems, but that
doesn't make the place any less attractive. Visas are easily obtained from the
consulate in the KAZAKHSTAN EMBASSY in London, mine took four days, and costs
about n35. It is possible to buy a visa at the border but you will get quite a
bit of hassle. It is best to be definite about your itinerary. If arriving
through the airport at Almaty the consulate desk is open to meet every
international flight.
Once in the country travel is a doddle you must be prepared to
sleep rough as the concept of cheap accommodation hasn't yet arrived. A good
contact in Bishkek is Alfia Nagaeva (tel.
#996 312 418442). She can put you in touch with car hire and agency's who handle
heliskiing, etc.
Two places worth a visit are the Alla Archa canyon, which is a
national park and the Alle Medin valley. Alle Arche is only a $5 taxi ride from
Bishkek and costs $2 a day to be there (Dec 1996), there is plenty of trekking
and some superb mountaineering. Alle Medin contains hot springs around, where a
sanatorium has been built. The sanatorium is now owned by the city heating
company, mainly for the use of their own employees, but again Alfia can find out
if there are any vacancies. Accommodation is in separate chalets sleeping up to
six in comfort. Meals are served in the canteen. It is all a bit basic and run
down but at $10 a night with three meals a day you can't complain. The
surrounding valleys are well worth exploring and if you have any trekking skills
it is possible to make three and four day excursions.
Issyk-Kuhl is a must to visit and Alfia can organise
accommodation. It is well worth hiring a car and asking the driver to show you
the Baranah Tower on the Silk Road. Standing on the tower at Tokmak looking
along the vast Chu valley bordered by the celestial mountains especially in the
early morning is a never to be forgotten experience. There are plenty of short
treks around the Issy-Kuhl area. Try the trek to the broken heart rock in the
Dzhety Oguz gorge. Kirghistan is a poor country and the people are rapidly
realising that tourism is going to be one of the principal earners of foreign
currency so you are assured of a good welcome.
For any advise or more information about this part of the
world or just to share experience feel free to contact
me by e-mail RRi9521029@aol.com on the Isle of Kerrera in
Scotland.
Ned Rimmer
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